We had found a parking near Benburb. From here, we could hike through a forest and along the river – a lovely spot. (54.409113, -6.739416)
After an evening and a morning hike through the forest, we left and stopped next at Armagh for a coffee and a short walk through town. The catholic cathedral on a hill was very impressive.
St. Patrick’s Cathedral, the seat of the Catholic Archbishop of Armagh, Primate of All Ireland, was constructed in several stages between 1840 and 1904. The original medieval cathedral, also dedicated to St Patrick, had been appropriated by the state church, the Church of Ireland, during the Irish Reformation. Like its Anglican counterpart, the new cathedral stands on a hill. After centuries of suppression of Catholics in Ireland, the construction of a Catholic cathedral at Armagh was a task of great historic and political symbolism.
We also wanted to explore the Mourne Mountains in the south-east of Northern Ireland. In the end, we only crossed the area, as the weather didn’t tempt us to do more.
We crossed the border to Ireland, again, without noticing it. On the way south to Dublin, there were two sights, where we had a look around: Monasterboice and Old Mellifont Abbey – both very interesting for us.
Monasterboice are the remains of an early Christian monastic settlement, founded in the 6th century. It was an important centre of learning. Unfortunately, the monastery was plundered in the 12th century and its books and numerous treasures were burned, leaving little for posterity. But the high crosses and the tower impress until today.
The round tower is about 28 metres tall, and in very good condition. It was likely built shortly after 968. The West Cross is 6.5 m high, the tallest high cross in Ireland, with biblical scenes depicted on both sides.
Muiredach’s High Cross features biblical carvings of both the Old and New Testaments, which are still very good preserved. An inscription at the bottom says, that this cross was erected by Muiredach.
A little bit further south lie the ruins of Old Mellifont Abbey, a Cistercian abbey founded in 1142. By 1170, Mellifont had one hundred monks and three hundred lay brothers. The abbey became the model for other Cistercian abbeys built in Ireland, with its formal style of architecture imported from the abbeys of the same order in France.
13th-century (where the monks washed their hands before eating)
The dissolution of the monasteries in England, Wales, and Ireland happened between 1536 and 1541, after Henry VIII had broken from Rome’s papal authority. All Catholic monasteries, priories, convents, and friaries were dissolved. With two Suppression Acts, he seized their wealth, disposed of their assets, and had buildings, relics and libraries destroyed.
After the dissolution of Mellifont in 1539, the abbey became a private manor house. This saw the signing of the Treaty of Mellifont in 1603 and served as William of Orange’s headquarters in 1690 during the Battle of the Boyne.
After so much history, we were ready for some real people, which we found in a lovely pub. They not only served us a great meal accompanied by a glass of Guinness, but also allowed us to stay the night at their big parking.
Tomorrow, we will reach Dublin, a big city for a change – more soon!